⛵ A Pobra do Caramiñal to Ribeira 🇪🇸

No matter which direction we’d been traveling lately, it always seemed to be upwind - and this trip promised no exception. We rose early, hoping to beat the wind, and motored slowly down the Ría de Arousa towards Illa de Sálvora. Playful dolphins accompanied us for a while, and once the wind finally arrived, Kosta and I got some good tacking practice before anchoring off our overnight stop.

The island welcomed us with rain and fog - perfect weather for hiding below and cooking a proper meal. The afternoon cleared up nicely, so we landed on the island and made our way to the lighthouse. Walking through colonies of breeding gulls and across rusty yellow granite rocks, Albina gave us a fascinating introduction to lichens - apparently Earth’s most ancient and adaptable organisms. They can reproduce in countless ways, survive in outer space, and don’t mind the salty Atlantic spray one bit. There are also rabbits everywhere on the island, though they proved more elusive than the lichens.

We discovered an abandoned but well-maintained village on the island (possibly a museum complex?). On the way, we passed a fountain and couldn’t resist trying the local water. Some friendly park rangers met us at the village entrance and explained that special permission was needed to visit - which we didn’t have. Fair enough. We turned back and ended the day with a bracing swim off the boat.

The next morning brought perfect sailing conditions - briefly. We set off for Ribeira under full sail, but when the wind died after an hour, we dropped canvas and motored the rest of the way, anchoring off the town beach. The little town proved a gem, with a great coastal walk to the southwest, hip cafés, and - crucially - laundry facilities, which we used extensively.

Further exploration led us to “Laxe das Rodas”, a petroglyph dating from the Copper or Bronze Age. The rock carvings show what look like six-legged animals - perhaps the ancient artists’ way of depicting speed?

Kosta and Albina departed here, leaving me solo again. I’d had a fantastic time with them, rediscovering the joys of leisurely coastal sailing - short hops between anchorages, no rush, plenty of time to explore each stop properly.

Weather Conditions

• Wind: nothing, then light south-westerlies
• Seas: flat, light swell when approaching Illa de Salvora
• Weather: rainy and foggy after anchoring before Salvora, later nice

Navigation

• Departure: A Pobra do Caraminal
• Overnight stop: Illa de Salvora
• Arrival: Ribeira
• Distance: 17 miles (31 km)
• Duration: 7 hours sailing + overnight at Sálvora

Notes

• Strong northerlies prevented reaching the next ría north
• Marina in Ribeira was full, anchored off the beach instead

Highlights

• Diverse wildlife on Illa de Sálvora
• Coastal walk along Ribeira’s beaches
• Bronze Age petroglyphs

Crew

• Kosta and Albina

Photos

An unobstructed view of the Atlantic - next stop: America

Making the most of the rain - proper cooking weather

The crew’s farewell photo - Kosta and Albina’s last day aboard

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