⛵ Audierne 🇫🇷 to Portland 🇬🇧

Posted on August 07, 2025

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The Raz de Sein is a narrow passage between Île de Sein and Pointe du Raz, known for strong currents and unpredictable conditions. I chose the calmest forecast to pass through. The tidal stream was meant to turn favorable at 0900, but it didn’t cooperate - first against me, then pushing sideways. With no wind as promised, I motored all morning and afternoon to clear western Brittany.

East of Ushant the swell suddenly increased. I’d entered an overfall where tidal streams meet. With only 10 knots of wind I was making 11 knots over ground - the current was pushing hard from behind. At the channel’s end the water literally boiled with upwellings and confused seas that sent the autopilot hunting wildly.

Entering the English Channel proper, the swell built to over 1.2 meters while the wind remained frustratingly light. The boat rolled heavily, sails slamming. I was ready to turn back when finally, at 1600, the promised 12 knots filled in.

I aimed to cross the shipping lanes before dark for better visibility. Made it on time, but the weather turned British immediately - drizzle reducing visibility to under 2 miles. The cargo ships passing close by are humbling in their size.

The forecast promised a quiet night with under 15 knots. Instead it gusted to 25 and stayed there. I hadn’t rigged the staysail for heavy weather, and couldn’t face the wet, bouncing foredeck to set it up now. The reefed genoa wasn’t ideal for beating upwind in these conditions. I abandoned Plymouth for Portland - further off the wind and easier on the sails.

Portland Bill’s overfalls are notorious. Approaching from the west, I needed to round the headland then turn north, timing it before the tide turned foul at 2000. My first attempt at cutting the corner met a wall of breaking seas stretching a mile wide. I jibed away quickly. The second approach from the southeast worked better - steep waves from the south tried to throw the boat around, but I hand-steered through them, using the push to make northing faster. Soon I was anchored in Portland’s huge harbor, still buzzing with adrenaline.